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by D. Marlena
This is a basic guide for the beginner with information intended to aid the novice in selection, pairing, cage prep and elementary safety measures.
If you would like to breed one pair or several, for your pleasure or to sell as pets, the concepts remain the same. Diet, hygiene, caging and proper pairing are the principal first steps.
Lets begin by selecting stock! There may be a shortage by the first of February, as most potential breeders have their canaries ready to pair by the first of the month in the U.S. When purchasing new stock, stand back several feet from the cage and carefully observe the birds. Select only active, smooth feathered and alert birds. Avoid birds that appear listless and sit all puffed up like a ball. Look around the underside of tail and vent for signs of soiled wet droppings or dried fecal matter clinging to feathers. Also when the bird flies in the cage, listen for sounds of wheezing or panting. Since this is not a medical article, I will conclude by advising against buying a bird exhibiting these symptoms. If several birds appear to not be in good form, I would go to another breeder or store to check for stock as disease is easy to pass from one to another in close proximity. Do not confuse listlessness with a bird that has perhaps justtaken a bath and is shaking feathers and puffing to dry. If in doubt, shop around for a while and observe later.
Many like to breed one male to one hen, others breed one male to two hens and still others have had success breeding three hens to one male. I personally choose to breed at most two hens to one male. I find this less problematic in moving the male from cage to cage. Some choose to aviary breed, where the birds are free to select mates and nest at will. I again do not prefer this method as you have little choice or control over selection of pairs and certainly no control over inevitable arguing among hens and sometimes males.
There are many good canary food mixes on the market and several that contain vitamins. For beginners this is a good choice, since all basic foods and essentials are present. Next select a good gravel mix, preferably with oyster shell. It has a variety in size of grit grain, plus the added calcium in oyster shell. Be sure you also have cuttlebone and/or mineral block in each cage. Provide extra cups for treats and a dish for daily bathing. After each bath, remove container and dry the area that is wet. Do not allow cage to be damp or water to remain on seeds. This can cause mold to grow and be deadly to the bird Other basic precautions include never leave fruit such as apple or greens to remain for long periods in the cage. Be particularly careful in leaving boiled egg for extended time. When serving hard boiled eggs, serve the birds a reasonable amount and then remove after an hour or so. When canaries are rearing their young I have found most love egg and also shredded wheat soaked in milk and squeezed fairly dry. I place a small amount in several times daily, removing uneaten amounts each time. There are several nestling foods on the market and is sometimes advisable for persons totally unfamiliar with rearing young. I prepare a cornbread mixed with egg, milk, wheat germ and oats. This type food can be left in the cage for much longer periods.
When selecting nests and nesting material, you will also find there are many to choose from. I prefer plastic nests and felt pads. Canaries like to carry material and build to their liking, so place a container of hair that you can obtain from your local shop. I also place light colored cotton lint from my clothes dryer. Most of the birds prefer this soft lint material over the commercial forms. Never use fibrous materials like nylon as strands can get caught on legs or around newborn necks. Be sure water and foods are clean at all times!! Remember this is what the parents will be feeding their young.
If you are breeding and rearing with male (cock) in cage, he will assist in feeding the babies. Once in awhile you will find a male that is disruptive and should be removed. If you are using one male for two hens, you can place him in each cage for a few hours at a time or remove him from both and let the hen raise young if necessary.
Each mature hen lays four eggs usually. Each egg is laid about twenty-four hours apart and generally in early morning. It is advisable to purchase fake eggs, replacing each new laid egg with a fake one until the fourth egg is laid. This assures all babies hatched will be at the same approximate time. Take great care in lifting the eggs from the nest and place gently in a small padded dish until replacing the fake ones. Using a teaspoon is helpful to some people. Eggs hatch in about 13-14 days Do not remove babies from cage until you are sure they are eating on their own (about 3-4 weeks of age).
In most area of the country there is enough humidity in the environment for successful hatching. However in warmer areas or in very dry homes humidity may have to be added. This can be achieved by placing a humidifier or a potpourri in the room, providing extra moisture.
Selecting Pairs
There are basic rules of breeding to prevent unfortunate results. The following table provides general guides to color and type.
| PAIRS | PAIRS |
| R x A | W x Y |
| R x Vr | W x B |
| R x O | W x Wv |
| Y x Y | Cr x P |
| Y x W | Cr x Cb |
| Y x Vy | |
| R = Red Factor | A = Apricot |
| O = Orange (all shades) | Vr = Variegated |
| W = White | B = Buff |
| Wv = White variegated | Vy = Variegated |
| Cr = Crested | Cb = Crest bred |
Crest bred is a bird that has a plain head, but offspring of crested. Never breed two crested birds as they will either die or be bald. Never breed two clear whites as they also do not produce viable young. This dominant trait works much like the incompatibility of Rh factor in humans.
HELPFUL HINTS
Open colored bands for tracing family is most beneficial. Place one color on hen, another for male. Offspring should then have one leg banded with mothers color, the other leg banded with fathers color. This prevents inbreeding should you hold back stock for next year.
After second clutch, let hen recuperate for about one week, then place in flight cage or large cage where she can exercise. This applies to males also.
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